Friday, November 25, 2011

Well I bit the bullet and started the wool cloak tonight.  I was out & about all day today checking all my favorite fabric stores to see exactly what I wanted to get to make myself a bliaut but I couldn't find anything I liked as much as the electric blue wool I had gotten eon's ago for my cloak.  Its light weight, a tight weave and I love the feel of it.  So I decided to use the 4 yards of heathered purple wool for my cloak instead.  I have had it in my stash for quite awhile now, and while its a looser weave, I think it will work quite well for me as a cloak.  I don't normally wear a cloak usually but have found this past camp season that I wouldn't mind having one around (although I found that sharing one with someone warm when I was in dire need of heat was extremely nice I must admit). 

The purple is light enough that it shouldn't be too heavy on my shoulders, the one I made Magnus was ungodly heavy!  Plus, I don't think I will get overly hot wearing it but it should keep in quite a bit of warmth considering I usually am already wearing linen & wool.  The only time I really want a cloak is when I belly dance...hence the fun time sharing >;p

I went with a lighter color linen thread to give it some contrasting decoration.  I think the running stitch I will do along the hem will work in well with the flat felled seams along each section since I am not going to add any sort of trim to the cloak. 

I only had 4 yards of this wool but it was 90 wide.  So I actually put the selvages at the top & bottom and cut the triangles through the middle.  I know that's not really cutting along the bias but given the weave of the wool I don't think it will be a problem.  Again, going with a full circle would just make the cloak a lot heavier than I would like and since I usually have one side thrown over my shoulder I don't see how having a couple sections short of a full circle is going to affect the look of the cloak at all. 

All in all, doing it this way keeps me from having to purchase more wool so the only thing I have actually bought for the challenge thus far is linen thread and the trim on my kirtle.  Everything else I have had in my stash.  So all in all, I've spent under $20.00 so far! 

Although Jenet has put it in my head I should make RED linen braies I may actually go buy some red linen tomorrow with my 50% off coupon!


Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Kirtle is done!...maybe...

The Herringbone wool kirtle with wool accent & wool trim is complete.  I think.  I had JUST enough trim to do the bottom and I mean JUST enough...I literally have less than 1/2 an inch of it left lol.  I may still do some fingerloop braids to go around the edges of the neck and the wrists.  It just seems too plain to me but I don't want to do a blanket stitch with the herringbone pattern. 

I ended up flipping the trim on the collar, I really loved both sides so I figured that if I did one side for the arms it should be perfectly fine to do the other side for the collar.  I matched the collar for the bottom trim. 

Its a little bit big, and the shoulders are a bit wide...I really need to get someone to measure me PROPERLY so I know exactly what width I really need to use. But it still fits very well and its a good length too.  I am VERY happy with it.

100% hand sewn
Herringbone wool Kirtle
Red Wool accents
Wool trim
Linen Thread

Thursday, November 10, 2011

I'll raise ya 2 gores & an Arm band =)

Well I have managed to get both side gores done and one arm band finished.  I decided not to do the blanket stitch on the arm band this time.  I think with the herringbone pattern it would just be too much.  I think the running stitch is much cleaner and makes the trim stand out better.  At least I hope so...

Should finish the other arm band tomorrow then start stitching the body together and put the neck section on.  I may do the trim on it a little different, just depends on what I feel like when I get to it.  I will probably still do the blanket stitching around the neck opening with the Terra Cotta linen thread but I will see how it looks once I get everything else sewn in. 

I am honestly quite surprised with how happy I am with the color blending.  I was really worried it would not look right with the herringbone pattern but, I am really digging it!!!  Costuming Karma at its finest heheh...


Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Official Kirtle has been started...

I managed to get the herringbone wool cut for my kirtle tonight.  With the help of some of the "Garb Gals" (a group you should all look into on Facebook if you aren't there already!) I figured out how to make the pattern work on the arms & gores.  Its what I was dreading most.  So it is all cut out, I have found the right wool to use as my neck & arm borders and found that one of the trims I got at Crown from Calontir Trims will work out nicely for it.  Tomorrow I start sewing, with the lofty goal of possibly having it ready to wear for 1000 Eye's Baronial Birthday a week from Saturday!  Guess we shall see lol...

In finally making the decision on going with the herringbome wool, I can now go ahead and use the light weight purple wool I have as my circle cloak.  I have 4+ yards of 90" wide fabric so I think I can get a circle cloak out of it.  Since its a lighter wool than the weight I made Magnus' cloak out of it won't kill my shoulders and if I find its not thick enough I can always go back and line it with linen should I feel the need.  So, things are progressing nicely and I should be on track to finish these two things before Thanksgiving then all I will have left are my braes, hose, phrygian cap and garters.  Which should be fairly easy...(she says hesitantly) lol!


Thursday, November 3, 2011

An Update...

Well, I have learned a few things since my last update.  I have washed my "practice" kirtle and I now realize that only using 2 strands of linen thread is not going to work.  Several of my blanket stitches have come apart due to stress.  I can now see why the thicker linen thread (80/3) is a much better option.  I just wish they had more color choices!  I think the 3 strands will be fine for the embroidery thread...that gets twice the use out of the length at least. 

So obviously I will be going ahead with my real kirtle now, and use the herringbone wool I had originally planned on.  I am just not sure how meticulous I need to be pattern wise.  for the arms & side gores, should they be exact?  I'm not sure I have enough fabric to make everything exact.  With herringbone is it that noticeable?  I guess once I get to cutting I will figure it out in a hurry lol! 

I am still holding off on my braes & hose as those are going to be a bear.  I am doing the wrap around braes, not the preformed leg pattern and I am having a hard time finding a pattern reference for those.  And I just haven't had time to make the pattern for the hose yet.  But I will! 

The last two items, the leather garters and the phrygian cap should be fairly easy.  Although I am still working out how much of a "smurf bump" I want on the top lol.  Once I get that down I am going to most likely make a couple for gifts as well.

I took a little time off from the ACC to do gift #2 which was a linen tunic for Brynjolfr, the Queen's Champion.  He stepped up and took on autocratting Ely's Knighting when it had to be postponed and I knew he didn't have much garb wise.  Of course without measurements (because it was a surprise) I made it a bit too large, so I am going to have to rip some seams & cut it down a bit.  Luckily he will be at Solstice and I can gift it to him then!  He at least got to see what I was doing and I got to see just how too long I'd made it. 

I can not judge clothing size any more!  I used to be able to look at something, know it would fit and it be perfect.  Now, I can't judge for crap.  Not for me, not for Greg not for SUCKS!!! 

I am headed upstairs to try and cut my kirtle out...pray for my soul!