Monday, August 29, 2011

Knight Time ...

I got to spend some quality time with my Knight (Count Ralf le Bigod) yesterday afternoon going over patterns for braise and how he does his awesome looking hose.  I "think" I will be able to copy his pattern for hose pretty easily.  Unfortunately he has chicken legs so no way can I just use his pattern darn it.  The man has no calves....seriously...they're like peglegs! wonder his winnegas ALWAYS stay up! 

Anyway, after we discussed the patterns we got into a really great conversation about period underwear & why I would wear them.  Oddly enough I had never even considered WHY my personae does what she does.  I know WHAT she does, its like she just popped out ready made and thats who she is, but I never really bothered with the Why.  I have done some research and have a lot of my basics figured out but to drill it down to "Why does your personae wear mens underwear?" was never a thought. 

I know many people really don't have their own personae fleshed out and thats perfectly fine.  In my previous SCA life as a 14th Century Scottish woman I made up reasons why I fought but it was all conjecture.  Nothing was truly supportable should I have really wanted to document my history but it suited me and no one ever criticized me about not having something fleshed out.  Even now, I don't think anyone would do that really.  But to those of us that enjoy such things and "Would You Like To Know More" (to quote Starship Troopers hehe) it gives us even more insight into our alternate beings hehe.

It excites me now to know I can fully support why Helchen does what she does, wears what she wears and why she fights.  Everything can be documented - right down to WHY she would wear mens underwear and even to why they are the color they are (or will be once I make them hehe).  I am amazed at the levels of detail knowing my personae's history opens up to me.  It also makes this challenge that much easier.

I was having problems with my documentation.  I have never done documentation before and I thought you had to do things exactly like the period references you find did them.  I was confounded when I was using two different examples for my shirt and one had gussets and one didn' how am I supposed to make the shirt?  After much discussion with gloriously knowledgeable friends I realize the references are simply that.  I simply need to show what WAS done in period and why I am doing MY shirt the way I did it.  Which rolls personae would have done it this way because....

So yea I am breathing MUCH easier now with the choices I am going to have to make regarding fabric, design and embellishment because its all based on Helchen and if anyone knows her best...(and knows why she wears men's drawers)...its Me =)

(who occasionally wears men's her real life too)

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Shiny...The 1st item in the ACC done!

My shirt is now done.  100% handsewn and I have the pin pricks to prove it!  I started the shirt on Saturday August 6, 2011 with cutting it out.  It sat, due to my hesitance on flat felled seams until Tuesday August 16, 2011.  I am pretty happy once I got to sewing it only took me a few days to finish it.  And that was only working on it an hour or two each night. 

I have learned pre-pinning works great but for hemming I do much better rolling it as I go.  I also love love LOVE the beeswax that Mistress Bianca gave out at her collegium class.  That has saved me many times.  I just slip the little pouch into my cleavage to keep it warm and anytime the linen thread got rough I slid it out!  Works like a charm.  I will definitely be melting down my big blocks once I find out what type of mold she used.  It looks like a mini Reeses peanut butter cup.

Some of my beginning seams are a bit uneven but by the end of the shirt I pretty much had the spacing figured out and I am very happy with the outcome.  The opening at the neck may need to be altered a little bit but I am waiting until I wash the completed shirt before I change anything.  Fit was good although I could probably take it in a couple places.  I wasn't sure on the seam allowances for flat felling so I left a little extra in the cut. 

I will say gussets & flat felling are a PAIN IN THE ASS!!!  I almost went with the running stitch to forgoe the flat felling but it seemed (seamed...get it lol I crack myself up) to work out just fine.  But agan..P.I.T.A!!!

All in all, I am a proud girl.  I haven't ever made anything like this by hand and it was actually very therapeutic just to sit, watch Firefly & sew.  Although now I will need to find a different series for each part of the challenge lol!

I thought I was getting in over my head with this but right now, I think I will do ok!  Thank you to everyone who gave me input about the gussets & seams.  Here is a photo of the finished shirt.  I will save all the documentation photos I have for the finale =)


Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Flat Felled Seams!

Well it was tough but after Bianca's class, various videos on youtube, talking with friends in the ACC & reading an online article on period sewing techniques, I finally felt ready enough to start sewing.  It's odd because I would normally have had this thing whipped out in under an hour on a machine.  So far...I have one shoulder seam done!  LOL =)

I took some shots of the seam because...well...I am pretty proud of myself!  I know its not perfect but I am excited to have it truly started.  I did get to discuss the process of documentation and what the process is from a find to what you hold in your hand.  That helped a lot.  I realize I was truly trying to overthink the whole process...which to those who know me, should not come as a complete surprise ROFL!

The top picture is the rightside and the bottom picture is the underside of the seam.  I also have managed to gleen a few linen threads long enough to sew with so far.  That was an AMAZING idea to take threads from the actual fabric to sew with! 

All in all I am happy with my progress.  I am still so excited about finally figuring it out I want to stay up longer just to sew, however I know that won't last long. 

One other major discovery was made while sewing tonight...Disturbed & Godsmack make great sewing songs!!! 

Hope you all have a glorious week!

Cheers ~ Rogue

Saturday, August 6, 2011

And...its begun =)

Well tonight after having family over for dinner, which forced me to clean my sewing/armoring table (aka the kitchen table) off so we could eat, I decided to get some good use out of it before I cluttered it up again!  I cut out the first piece of my ACC garb.  My white linen undershirt. 

It is a very basic design based on the Thorsbjerg tunic & the Viborg linen smock.  Its a rectangular body & rectangular arms with a taper to the wrist.  A simple round neckline with side seems to the hip, open past the hips.

Now that its cut out I still have to figure out a few things.

1) The Neck: I want to put the neck slit over to the side so its basically on my shoulder.  I think it looks so much better that way.  Or I could just do a simple boat neck & still get the flat lay I want under the opening of my kirtle.  I just can't decide! 

2) Seams:  Should I flat fell all the seams?  I know on the Thorsbjerg tunic the seams are in the middle of the arm instead of at the shoulder seam and underarm seam, so I am unsure where to put them.  And in a flat felled seam should everything be a running stitch?  I may do a blanket stitch in a coordinating color on the neck & cuffs but again...not sure!

3) I'm kind of perplexed at how to set up the flat felled seam to start.  I have seen Bianca do it, looked at her hand outs, even seen some photos on youtube but still am hesitant to start it all.  That initial desire for hand holding is killin' me LOL! 

4) Gussets: I am not sure if I should add gussets under the arms or not.  I have enough linen left from the arms to cut them out if I need them but deciding if I should add them is the dilemma!

Now...for my Kirtle question!

In searching for more linen, I found this wool in the wrong box.  Its a maroonish red with heather accents.  I think it will be fine but I am wondering about the pattern...I don't want something that wouldn't work in period.  Any ideas if the Herringbone will work anyone?

UPDATE!  I found references to "the interlacement of the herringbone or broken chevron twill weave"  so YAY I have my Kirtle Wool =)