Saturday, August 6, 2011

And...its begun =)

Well tonight after having family over for dinner, which forced me to clean my sewing/armoring table (aka the kitchen table) off so we could eat, I decided to get some good use out of it before I cluttered it up again!  I cut out the first piece of my ACC garb.  My white linen undershirt. 

It is a very basic design based on the Thorsbjerg tunic & the Viborg linen smock.  Its a rectangular body & rectangular arms with a taper to the wrist.  A simple round neckline with side seems to the hip, open past the hips.

Now that its cut out I still have to figure out a few things.

1) The Neck: I want to put the neck slit over to the side so its basically on my shoulder.  I think it looks so much better that way.  Or I could just do a simple boat neck & still get the flat lay I want under the opening of my kirtle.  I just can't decide! 

2) Seams:  Should I flat fell all the seams?  I know on the Thorsbjerg tunic the seams are in the middle of the arm instead of at the shoulder seam and underarm seam, so I am unsure where to put them.  And in a flat felled seam should everything be a running stitch?  I may do a blanket stitch in a coordinating color on the neck & cuffs but again...not sure!

3) I'm kind of perplexed at how to set up the flat felled seam to start.  I have seen Bianca do it, looked at her hand outs, even seen some photos on youtube but still am hesitant to start it all.  That initial desire for hand holding is killin' me LOL! 

4) Gussets: I am not sure if I should add gussets under the arms or not.  I have enough linen left from the arms to cut them out if I need them but deciding if I should add them is the dilemma!

Now...for my Kirtle question!

In searching for more linen, I found this wool in the wrong box.  Its a maroonish red with heather accents.  I think it will be fine but I am wondering about the pattern...I don't want something that wouldn't work in period.  Any ideas if the Herringbone will work anyone?

UPDATE!  I found references to "the interlacement of the herringbone or broken chevron twill weave"  so YAY I have my Kirtle Wool =) 


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  2. Oh and I found this:

    Herringbone has been around since before the Common Era....

  3. Flat Felled seams do take forever, but they seal those pesky raw edges and look awesome. I just finished a tunic for Sven with hand sewn flat fells - if you're at Midge Marsh I'll show you what I mean. I used a back stitch.

    As for gussets, they allow for more mobility of your arms. If your shoulder seam falls true to your shoulder, you will want them. If, like on many other t-tunics they fall a few inches below the shoulder by nature of the width of your body of the tunic, you may not necessarily need them. I always add them, just to be sure. Reaching across your body without feeling trapped by your own clothing is a good thing.

  4. The problem isn't actually not knowing how to do gussets, I use them in all my kirtles & undertunics. I am just trying to decide if its more period WITH it or without it. One of the dig shirts I am basing it on has them and one doesn't.

    I think my issues stem more from documenting it...which I may blog on lol

  5. From one well-endowed girl to another, put in the gussets. For men, it gives movement. For women, it prevents that funny horizontal band where the bosoms get bisected and smooshed.

    RUn-and-felled seams are fabulous. Stagger your fabrics so one is 1/4"stepped above the other. Running stitch the seam together. Then roll the tall seam under the short one. I use a catch stitch to tack that down (York dig, I think).

    Do not go with a boat neck. They are uncomfortable to wear with a bra and do little for your fabulous silhouette.

  6. I'm with bonx on this, do the gussets. It just makes the fit easier and more pleasant for big chesty larue girls :)

    If you don't want to wait until midge marsh where people can do the hand holding, I suggest just getting some scrap fabric and doing your seams a few time on that until you feel confident enough to try on your linen.
    My first time hand sewing I was far away from home in Nashville and wouldn't be home for 3 weeks. I practiced on some craptatic calico I got at the fabric store near my hotel in the dollar bin.. Then threw it away so no one would see my shoddy newb attempts :D

    Also.. I like being on your blog.. I get to see my mans butt in fighting garb over there